Better Than A Poke In The Eye With A Sharp Stick?

Better Than A Poke In The Eye With A Sharp Stick?

[RANT ON]

Last night, I rode in the darkness (and without my trusty tinted visor) for the first time in months.

I was a bit rusty.  It takes a while to get all your confidence back in night riding.  A big part of riding a bike is looking through the corner to the exit, but of course the headlights only shine forwards, so essentially you can’t really see, and have to totally readjust your riding style.

Added to this, you can’t see the potholes and dead badgers.

And it was drizzling with rain.

I headed off down the country lanes, being very sensible, and it wasn’t long before a car approached from the opposite direction.

I was riding on high-beam headlights so as not to end up sniffing the hedgerows, and, as I always do, was riding with my thumb over the high beam switch.

This is a very simple concept:

When you shine a 6,000 watt light into someones eyes at night, they have trouble seeing.  If they are driving two tonne of metal or riding a bike at the time, this makes for a dangerous situation for all concerned.  Especially with rain to refract the light so that it blinds you even more.

https://i1.wp.com/gopaultech.com/files/2009/03/hid-headlights1.jpg

When traveling down your average country lane, you can see a vee-hick-al coming the other way very clearly, because their headlights illuminate the hedgerows and can be seen with a clear view from miles away.  At worst, you have a good few seconds notice that someone is coming around the same corner in the opposite direction.

ALLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL you have to do is flick that -ing switch back to dip-beam BEFORE your lights are shining directly at the oncoming vee-hick-al, and all is right and good in the world.

It’s that simple.  See the reflection of lights approaching, dip your headlights.

It’s common fucking sense.

So why does every braindead zombie cunt-wig leave their lights on high beam until I take both my hands off the bars, covering my face and screaming like some bloody Triffid has spat in my face, slowing to a 2mph crawl as I try to wobble to the left of the brain-searing source of the light without dying???

And what can you do about it???

‘Bastard Instinct’ makes you flash your lights at them, but all this really does is blinds them, meaning you’re even more likely to die.  So this can’t be the best plan, can it?

Or there’s getting on the old Noddy horn, but this is a bit Ghey.  Most bike horns sound like a virgin farting in a lift, anyway.  It’s not very intimidating.

How would the Law look on someone who is half blind turning around, chasing down some High Beam Twat, dragging them out of their car, and beating them to death with their own brainstem?

Fuckers.

[RANT OFF] https://i0.wp.com/www.smartdriving.co.uk/Assets/Driving_Assets/Photos/headlights.png 

Yoke-Mounting The Veho HD10+ And Remote Operation

Yoke-Mounting The Veho HD10+ And Remote Operation

Continuing the saga of how to get the most of my Veho Veho VCC-005-MUVI-HD10+ camera, I again went to the ‘official’ Veho crafted mounts – this time I stuck the slide-in-and-click base pad onto my top yoke.  On my ZX9R this isn’t ideal, because there’s very little space to stick it down, and because of its size it had to be stuck on at a slight angle.

It was about then that I realised any movement of the bars risked pressing the camera against the metal fairing brace!  Unlike the sticky mount with the velcro that I used to mount the camera to my tank reccently, this was intsantly stuck to the yoke as if it had been welded on!  Even after a minute or so it was stuck so hard I can probably lift the bike off the ground and it would still stay stuck!  Great for withstanding high speeds, but make sure you plan out your mounting point for this one very carefully!

Luckily, as it turns out, the camera only just about touches the fairing brace on full left lock.  In the video you’ll hear it vibrate against it as I’m turning the bike around – but obviously when actually riding the bike at speed the bars barely turn, so this isn’t an issue.

There is some vibration, but far less than there was from the fuel tank.  The view is quite good of the clocks and through the screen, but you only get the top half of the speedo and rev counter in view.

Removal is very quick and easy, as you simply push two clips together and slide the mount and camera from the sticky pad, much like a rucksack strap fastener.

You’ll see from the video that I also did a night time test.  The HD10+ performed better than expected – the picture is still very grainy, but where there is a good light source from streetlamps or my headlight, it picks up quite a lot, and also handles oncoming headlights quite well.

I’ve had a few questions lately about the remote operation unit.  This works from radio frequencies, so doesn’t have to be pointing at the camera to operate, and seems to have a good range.  I placed the Veho at one end of my house and it still operated instantly from the remote on the far side of the house and through a wall!  So it should be absolutely fine if you’re going to bury the camera in the depths of your bike/car and operate it this way.

For the very first operation you have to ‘pair’ the remote to your camera by holding down the OK/Shutter button on the HD10+ and then turning the power switch to ‘On’.  Then you hold down the ‘Record’ and ‘Stop’ buttons together on the remote (within 3 secs of the camera powering up) and you’re done.

As ever, if you need any more advice or info on this Veho Vcc005, feel free to ask and I shall do my best to answer or test it!